A: Center body piece. This was measured as from mid-upper arm across the shoulders to mid-upper arm, for me this was 60cm. This gave sleeve length of 10cm, giving a torso of 40cm wide. The length is 30cm longer than shoulders to floor to give plenty of bunching across the stomach. The arm with is 10cm more than needed as there are no gussets, here 50cm. This will not go around the body and is designed to be laced closed.
B: The lining for the body. Same cut as piece A except for length which here is only 90cm, being half the fabric length, but it is only needed for lining the torso section.
C: Side gores. This is measured as waist to floor, here 108cm and waist minus torso width, 42cm, divided by four. Base with was determined by fabric length. Line up with base of A.
D: Bell sleaves. With an arm length of 60cm, these were measured as sleave length on A; 10cm, minus 12cm for contrasting sleave, giving 38cm. Top of the sleave is measured as arm circumference above elbow with movement allowance, here 40cm. Sleave drop was determined by length of fabric.
E&F: Sleave lining. Line D as shown in 5. Line and sew the bell sleaves together before attaching to the rest of the dress.
G: Neck trim. Sew as edging to neck. If embroidering, do this before attaching.
H: Arm trim. 24cm long. Fold in half, with long side against A, measurement 50cm, short side, measuremt 40cm onto the bell.
Once the dress is constructed, put lacing eyelets along the sides of A at 1cm intervals down to the top of C. When tightened it should wrinkle across the stomach.
Lady Auicia le Redde
Phoenix Rise